A crossroads rich in history architecture
Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, is at the intersection of important routes between the Adriatic coast and Central Europe — a location that has bolstered its economy for centuries. The city, which sprung up from two medieval settlements, retains its charm and relaxed atmosphere despite recent—and rapid—economic development, particularly in transportation. Zagreb offers visitors picturesque open-air markets, arts and crafts, green open spaces and hearty cuisine.
Getting there:
Zagreb’s Pleso Airport is 17 kilometers (about 10 miles) from the city center. You can catch a 25-minute bus ride from the airport to the Main Bus Station in the city center for about 30 kuna (US$5.40 at U.S. 18 cents to the kuna, or HRK). Taxis are also available outside the airport and will cost around 200 kuna for a ride into the city. Alternatively, you can rent a car.
Getting around:
If you don’t have a car, walking is a great way to navigate the city. You also can take the tram, which provides easy access to most areas. For destinations outside the city, hop on a bus. Tram and bus services are reasonably prices and run by Zagreb Municipal Transit System (ZET). Details of tariffs, routes and timetables can be found at www.zet.hr (only part of the site is in English). Visitors can take advantage of the Zagreb Card available for 24- or 72-hour periods; it can be used on all public transport and also offers discounts on many attractions. More information can be found at http://www.zagrebcard.fivestars.hr/page_en.htm.
What to do:
Soak up some art and culture with a visit to the Museum of Contemporary Art, with its shifting permanent works called “Collection in Motion.” Or try the Mimara Museum, a former gymnasium that houses 3,700 works, including art and artifacts from the Far East, Pre-Columbian America, Greece and Crete, as well as famous European works from Rubens, Goya and others.
Take a ride on the 100-year-old, two-car Funicular, which will take you to the Upper Town (Gornji Grad). Having kept its original appearance and construction, and most of its technical characteristics, the Funicular is legally protected as a cultural monument. A single ride costs 4 kuna.
Admire the architecture as you walk through narrow cobblestone streets of the Upper Town. The city’s 13th century twin-spire cathedral is an impressive landmark. Meander through Dolac Market, which has been going strong for more than 80 years. Here you’ll find farmers selling homemade produce, as well as fresh meat, fish, fruits and vegetables. You may even pick up some lunch bargains.
For a green retreat, head for the 18 hectares (45 acres) of tranquil green space that makes up Maksimir Park & Zoo, just 10 minutes east of the city center. For an athletic outing, visit the 
sports and recreation center on Lake Jarun, which holds regatta races and tennis tournaments, or take to the ski slopes of the Medvednica mountain.
For nightlife, check out jazz at the BP Club in the city’s Lower Town area or stop by the quirky Cica Bar in Tkalčićeva, where the constantly changing interior contains washing machines, framed urinals, sinks that double as bar tables and more. The bar is also known for its range of house grappa-like fruit brandies called rakija.
Dining out:
Local Croatian cuisine is simple, hearty and flavorful, often consisting of grilled meats, stews and pies. It’s customary to start and end the meal with a rakija. Other local specialties include burek— a pastry stuffed with cheese, meat or apple that can be found all over town. Fast-food options include cevapcici, which is a Croatian hamburger made from spicy beef or pork or raznjici – similar to a shish kebab. Blitva is a side dish of boiled swiss chard, served with olive oil, potatoes and garlic; it is served throughout Croatia. An important planning note: Many restaurants are closed on Sundays.
For a sampling of local cuisine, try Baltazar. This rustic spot focuses on cooking with fresh, seasonal produce. The restaurant offers a wide selection of grilled meats, fish and wines. It’s at Nova ves 4, Ph:+385 1 46 66 999, http://www.restoran-baltazar.hr/EN/about.php.
Prasac (which literally means “pig”) is an intimate little restaurant in the Upper Town. The chef serves Mediterranean-style food with a signature twist. The menu is based on seasonal produce and is written on a blackboard. Try the tuna and beef dishes. It only seats about 20 people, so it’s best to make a reservation. You’ll find it at Vraničanijeva 6, Ph: +385 1 4851 411.
Marcellino is a higher-end restaurant serving a range of international cuisine, with a focus on Italian and Mediterranean flavors. Each dish is artfully presented and personally overseen by owner and head chef Mario. This place delivers great flavors and atmosphere, but you’ll leave with a slight dent in your wallet. Find the restaurant at Jurjevska 71, Ph:+385 1 46 77 111, http://www.marcellino.hr/en.