International, cultural and chilled – the capital of cool
Amsterdam is a breathtaking mix of old and new, genteel and seedy, cutting-edge and conservative. A business hub, a museum mecca, paradise for history and architecture lovers, the city is a delight to visit at any time of year. Large numbers of beautiful tree-lined canals are bordered by streets with rows of narrow, gabled houses and 17th-century warehouses, making Amsterdam an architectural treasure-house.
At three-quarters of a million inhabitants, Amsterdam is much smaller (but no less interesting) than many European capitals. And although it’s not one of Europe’s cheapest destinations, Amsterdam is perfectly accessible to the business traveler on a budget.
Getting to and from the airport
Schiphol International Airport is the fourth-busiest passenger terminal in Europe and is a mere 18 kilometers (11 miles) from central Amsterdam. The easiest way to get from airport to city is by train. Trains depart from Schiphol Plaza within the airport itself; they run 24 hours a day and the trip takes about 15 minutes. Train tickets can be bought at ticket counters or the yellow ticket vending machines. A one-way ticket from the airport to Amsterdam’s Central Station is 3.80 euros (approximately US$4.67 at the May 2010 exchange rate of 1 euro to US$1.23) in second class.
Getting around Amsterdam
Once in town, you’ll find that Amsterdam is very much a walking city; you can traverse the old center in 30 minutes and reach the outskirts in an hour. If you get lost amid the canals and bridges and pull out your map to find your way, don’t be surprised if someone offers to help you get your bearings – the locals are happy to help, and English is almost universally spoken.
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Driving in Amsterdam is best avoided, especially in the Grachten area – it’s hard to find parking, which costs up to 4 euros an hour. If you are driving, then park your car at the Olympia Stadium and buy a Park and Ride ticket to reach the city center by tram. The journey takes 20 minutes and costs only 6 euros for 24 hours parking, including free public transport.
Amsterdam taxis are among Europe’s most expensive; flag fall plus the first two kilometers is around 7.50 euros (US$9.23) and the rate is 2.20 euros per kilometer.
The city’s tram system is extensive and reliable. Fares are calculated by zone (the city center is Zone 1) and are valid for one hour from the time they’re stamped. Single-trip fares for one/two zones are 1.60/2.40 euros. If you’d like to plan your trip before you go, the public transport system site, www.gvb.nl, has lots of helpful information.
But remember – this is Amsterdam. If you aren’t wearing your best suit and carrying loads of luggage, why not try bicycling? It’s cheap, it’s green and it’s how the locals get around. Many hotels rent bikes, and there are bike rental companies scattered throughout the city. Count on about 7 to 10 euros per day in rental charges.
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Where to eat? For the truly budget-minded, street food is plentiful, varied and cheap. Don’t miss a portion of take-away fries at Het Flaamse Vriethuis on Voetboogsteeg – they may be inspired by Belgian frites, but get them Amsterdam-style with mayonnaise, Indonesian peanut sauce and minced onion. You’ll know you’re at the right place from the long line in front of the order window. |
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Other street favorites include haring broodjes – fresh chopped raw herring on a soft white roll. If that’s not to your taste, look for vans selling fresh stroopwafels — two thin cookies sandwiched together with cinnamon-caramel syrup.
If you’re in the mood for something more substantial than street nibbles, check out Pancakes!, located in the Negen Straatjes shopping district, for traditional Dutch pancakes with apple and powdered sugar, as well as savory variations like spinach and goat cheese. Another long-standing favorite is Hap-Hmmm, for classic Dutch home cooking at low, low prices.
If you’re looking for a bit of a splurge, head to Blauw aan de Wal, a little gem tucked away at the end of a narrow passageway in the Red Light District. Immaculate decor, Mediterranean-influenced dishes and an inspired wine list combine to soothe the weary traveler. In summer, opt for a table on the tree-shaded terrace.
What to do?
If you’re lucky enough to have some free time at your disposal, finding something fabulous to do or see will be easy – it’s choosing from the plethora of choices that’s tricky.
The Dutch are museum-mad – if you’ve got the time, you can visit museums dedicated to everything from tulips and vodka to fluorescent art and 19th-century ship engines.
The van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum are the city’s premier art museums, but there are plenty of other options, such as the many “house museums” scattered across town – including the houses where Anne Frank and Rembrandt once lived. If a visit to the Rijksmuseum is on your to-do list, be aware that most of the building is closed for renovations until late 2010. A collection of around 200 masterpieces is still available for viewing, however.
Museums entrance fees can be a drain on resources, but if business takes you to Amsterdam regularly, consider investing in the 35-euro Museumjaarkaart yearly ticket, which will get you into most state and municipal museums for free.
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If you’re planning to take in many of the local attractions and institutions consider purchasing a one-, two- or three-day Amsterdam Card (http://www.iamsterdamcard.com), which entitles holders to free public transportation, discounts for restaurants and attractions, a free canal-boat trip and admission to many museums. Summertime is great for a stroll or picnic in some of Amsterdam’s parks, such as the Vondel Park in the Oud Zuid quarter. Music lovers should remember that many of Amsterdam’s beloved summer festivals cost nothing to attend and some cultural institutions offer free treats such as the lunchtime concerts at the Concertgebouw. |
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Shopping
The Dutch have always been great traders, and in Amsterdam, shoppers are spoiled by the enormous diversity of shops. Leidsestraat, Kalverstraat, Nieuwendijk and Damrak are the classic shopping routes where the department stores, boutiques and souvenirs are concentrated. The more exclusive shops-international fashion houses, boutiques, jewelers and exclusive shoe shops-are mainly along Van Baerlestraat, P.C. Hooftstraat and Rokin. Try exploring the narrow
streets between the canals, which are crammed with unexpected little shops.
No trip to Amsterdam is complete without a visit to the Flower Market. The Albert Cuyp Markt, Waterlooplein flea market and Noordermarkt, where there’s a farmer’s market every Saturday, offer old-world charm and you can also find fun souvenirs and gifts to take home.
Amsterdam is also a center of the diamond trade, and not surprisingly, prices are often more reasonable there than elsewhere. Guided tours of diamond workshops let you see (usually fairly small) diamonds being cut and polished as they have been for centuries.